TheTameParrot.com - Say “BYE” To Your Parrot Problems

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True story:

Dateline: Tel Aviv:

Tele Aviv District Court issues a restraining order forbidding the owner of a pet parrot that won’t stop swearing from harming the bird in any way, upon petition from a local animal group. It had been recommended that the bird be sentenced to death, or that the tongue be severed, prompting the group to intervene with court action.

Dateline: South Africa:

A stolen African Grey parrot was recovered after police were able to identify the bird from it’s extremely vulgar language. It was identified when the owner supplied a list of words that the bird knew to the police. Officers were shocked by the parrot’s vocabulary and pleaded with its owner to take it back.

PROBLEM???

My friend Jerry has an interesting story as well:

“Boy, am I sure glad I’m not the only person with this problem! I had this sweet African Grey that had a swearing problem! The final straw was when we had some elderly ladies visiting us. Suddenly, out of the back room comes a string of language that would make a sailor blush! The shocked look on our visitors face prompted me to start taking action to stop it.

But how? I can’t kill the bird. Oh, I thought about it one day, after he raided my candy dish on my computer desk! Or the day he bit into several cans of soda because he loved to hear the whooshing sound of the soda spraying all over my kitchen! I just couldn’t do it.

Severing the tongue is barbaric! But something had to be done…and I knew it was going to take some time, lots of persistence, and tough love to accomplish it.”

UN-TEACHING YOUR BIRD

IGNORE the bird. Do not give any verbal or eye contact. The reason the bird is swearing is because it is trying to get your attention. If using a swear word does it, that is what you will hear!

When your bird says a word that is acceptable, praise him and give out a treat. Give lots of attention and emphasis on the good word. If the bird uses unacceptable words or noises, put the bird into “time out” by placing him in his case without toys or food. This should be a separate cage that is dedicated as a “time out” cage, so that the bird will know he’s being punished. Give the bird 15 minutes in “time out” and let the bird out. Interact with the bird and try to get him to talk other words through this interaction. This is generally how constant reinforcement works in training.

Never physically discipline the bird, as this will only upset the bird and you will lose your bond with it. It only creates more problems.

Find the source of these words…..they are learning these words from you, friends or family members. Put a stop to it!

Teach the bird other words by turning on the TV, using other alternative sources, or just by doing basic teaching lessons from repetitive learning and reinforcement. The bird will learn that if he talks appropriately, he will get your attention. Swearing will only land him in “time-out”.

Let the bird keep one swear word though…..if he’s stolen you may need a way for the police to identify it.

Please share any experiences you might have had with such birds. I’d love to read your feedback and comment! Thanks!

There are a lot of concerned bird owners out there who want to know about feather plucking. If left untreated and ignored, it can develop into serious health problems.

Trying to determine the cause is difficult, because it can be the result of an underlying health issue, something in the environment, or simply a behavior problem. Therefore, treating it will take a step-by-step approach which will eliminate possible causes.

MEDICAL ISSUES- The bird must be taken to an experienced avian veterinarian for this. Many vets simply are not experienced enough to identify bird diseases. The vet will do a CBC blood test, and possibly some other tests to isolate the problem. Things they look for are liver disease (common in all birds), Giardiasis (common intestinal infection in cockatiels), or vitamin deficiencies. Low protein or vitamin A deficiencies is common in birds fed an all seed diet, and a major cause for feather problems. A blood feather is also a very common cause for plucking feathers on the wings.

ENVIRONMENT- This can actually be the hardest to figure out. Something in the home could be causing some sort of allergic reaction. One common cause is mold. This spore can cause an itching problem with the skin, and the bird will break off features in order to get to the trouble spot. Other things like new carpet, furniture, or maybe some type of spray or room deodorizer produce toxins that may be causing it. Extremely dry air caused by an overworked dehumidifier could even be the cause. A careful inspection of the home will hopefully turn up clues. A humidifier for dry rooms, or a HEPA filter for dusty areas will greatly improve the living conditions.

POOR DIET- I am convinced that a major cause of many bird problems can be traced directly to their diet. Feather plucking is a great example.

Seed diets lack important vitamins in the development and health of bird feathers. A lack of Beta-carotene (Vitamin A) and protein are chief causes of feather problems, and can easily be discovered with a blood test. Signs of dull feathers or dark, black tips are a good visual sign. Products such as Spirulina are recommended as a safe food additive. This product is high in Vitamin A, Protein and B-12. Be careful to follow the dosage recommendations.

BEHAVIOR- Feather plucking is very common in birds like Cockatoos and African Grey’s. This results from lack of attention, boredom, or sudden changes in the living conditions. New additions to the family like babies, pets, or even a change in the room they are in can upset them.

Some birds enjoy being around people, so placing them in the living areas of your home will help. Others get nervous around constant activity. Changes in food, new toys in the cage, or even new furniture in the home can cause neurotic plucking. So it’s necessary to first examine these issues before proceeding.

The bird must be able to move around and exercise. Too small of a cage can result in mental issues. It’s going to take some careful observation to determine the exact cause of your birds psychological issues. Be patient, give your bird lots of attention, and eventually the plucking will cease.

I’d love to read your feedback and comments. Please post them below!

Every avian vet or bird breeder has their horror stories about blood feathers. 

Maybe it’s the story of the bird owner who was holding their bird, then discover blood drops coming from their bird.  Or worse, you wake up in the morning and find your pet lying dead in the cage with blood on the floor.  Both cases will cause extreme panic! 

This is usually the cause of a blood feather that has broken, and when that happens immediate attention is needed.  But with just a little education and some regular bird examinations, this will never happen.  And when it does, you will be prepared to deal with it.

WHAT IS A BLOOD FEATHER?

Have you ever examined a bird feather?  It consists of a shaft (called the quill), with the feather growing off of it.  When the bird molts, it will grow back new feathers.  As the feather grows, it is fed blood through the quill until it matures.  The blood will then recede back into the skin and seal itself.

If the bird should break this feature during development, it will have the same effect as sticking a straw into your body.  It will bleed uncontrollably until (hopefully) it clots and plugs the feather.  But in many cases, the blood flow is too rapid, and the bird will bleed to death.

This is why it’s extremely important for the new bird owner to learn how to identify a blood feather, and treat it during an emergency.  If problems develop at night, you certainly can’t wait until the vet’s office opens in the morning.  And there are very few after hour pet clinics that even know how to treat this simple ailment!

PREVENTION/IDENTIFYING A BLOOD FEATHER

The first sign of a problem is when your bird is over preening their wing.  The feather has most likely becoming abscessed and infected, causing the bird a lot of discomfort.  He will mutilate the feathers around it trying to fix the problem, and many times will break the feather, causing bleeding.  Simply touching the sore spot will cause the bird to scream, so you know you have a problem.

In other cases, your bird doesn’t give you any warning.  They may break the feather from preening or even flapping the wings, hitting a perch or cage bars.

Examine each feather and look for one that has a dark bluish/purple quill.  It will have a very thick tube near the skin, and is filled with blood.  Normal feathers will have a gray/white color, and will be thin.  If you touch this feather and the bird is in pain, you need to remove it.  Otherwise, leave it alone and seek medical help as soon as possible.

CAN I SAFELY REMOVE A BLOOD FEATHER?

This is a minor medical procedure.  If you are not sure of what you are doing, you should consult a vet.  I recommend that every new bird owner take their bird to a qualified avian vet when they first get their bird, and ask them to show the proper way to identify and treat blood feathers (and do basic grooming to wings and toenails).  You should know how to do this procedure in the event of an emergency.

I recommend that you get another person to help, and wrap the bird in a towel.  Using needle nose pliers, or a hemostat, extend the wing and locate the blood feather.  Grab hold of the feather near the base and firmly pull straight out, in the direction of the feather growth.  Use a firm, smooth pulling motion, taking care not to break the feather. 

If bleeding develops, apply pressure to the spot for a few minutes using a gauze pad or cotton ball.  If it continues, applying cornstarch or flower will sometimes help.  You can also try using Kwik-Stop (available at most pet store), but this is last resort.

Once the blood clot forms, keep the bird calm and don’t let him fly around or flap his wings.  You can keep him held in a towel for several minutes, or place him in his cage.

You must be sure the entire shaft has been removed.  If a portion remains and you are unable to remove it, immediate medical attention may be required to stop the bleeding.

Like any other product, the cost of birds is dependant on a variety of factors from simple supply and demand, to breeding conditions and expenses.  Let’s face it, breeding and selling birds is a business.  Let’s examine these issues and how they effect to cost of your bird.

AVAILABILITY- Some breeds of birds are quite rare and difficult to breed.  Parents may only produce one or two babies per clutch, and only once a year.  Others, like cockatiels, breed all year long and can average 3-5 babies per clutch.  Because of this overproduction, cockatiels are readily available and very inexpensive to buy. 

In comparison, Hyacinth Macaws were nearly extinct.  With few breeder pairs available, and only one or two babies per clutch a year, they are rare to find.  Prices for these birds can easily cost $8000

BREEDS- Not only do you need look at the type of bird, but also any special breeds.  For example, an “average” grey cockatiel can easily be purchased for $40.  But Latino cockatiels will cost even more.  So knowing exactly what you are looking for is important prior to shopping for your bird.

REGION- Birds are much easier and cheaper to raise in warmer climates, where outside flight cages are used.  In cold climates, it’s necessary to have heated aviaries.  These exotic warm weather birds can not stand the cold weather of northern states.  Shipping birds drastically adds to the cost. Buying birds from distant places doesn’t not save you anything once you add in these costs.

HAND FED OR PARENT FED- The labor costs involved in hand feeding birds can easily add a few hundred dollars to the cost of a large parrot.  But this is also a feature that bird owners insist on, as hand fed babies are more friendly and healthy then babies fed by their parents. 

BREEDER OR PET STORE- Many breeders raise birds as a hobby.  They do it for the love of birds.  Pet stores sell birds for profit.  This doesn’t make them a bad place to buy birds, just more expensive.  And many pet stores are actually supplied by the hobbyist breeder.  If cost is a factor in your decision, look around for an experienced breeder.  Ask local veterinarians, contact local bird clubs, or even animal rescue groups.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS- Other factors to consider are warranties.  Has the bird been checked by a vet, or will that be your responsibility?  That “bird deal” you got may not be that great once you factor in a $100 vet cheque.  It’s tempting to skip this expense, but you could wind up paying far more down the road if your bird was sold to you with health issues. 

BOTTOM LINE- Here is a list of what to expect in price ranges for birds. 

Budgies/Parakeets: $10-25

Canaries: $25-$150 (males cost more)

Finches: $10 - $100 (exotic coloring and breeds cost far more)

Lovebirds: $75-$200

Cockatiel:  $40-$200 (Common breeds are inexpensive)

Parrolets: $100-300

Quakers: $150-200 (Great breeding birds, readily available)

Conures: $300-$800

Caiques: $75-250

Doves $20-$40 (Fancy, show quality doves are much more)

Lories: $400-$800

African Greys $600-$2000 (Older birds cost more…)

Amazons $600-$1500 (Talking breeds cost much more)

Cockatoos $800-$5000 (Various sizes, larger are more expensive)

Eclectus $600-$1200 (Males more expensive)

Macaws: $900-$5000 (High Demand)

Quality is everything when you buy a bird cage. This is a large investment, and you want it to last!

More important….you want it to BE SAFE!

HOW MUCH ARE YOU WILLING TO SPEND?

There is no such thing as “too big” of a bird cage. Your bird will love as much space as possible. But in reality, you are limited to the “footprint” of space on the floor where you plan to put your bird.

Do you need a stand, or will this be on a table you already have? Bird stands do not come standard with many cages, so plan to spend more money if you need one.

Do you want it to fit the “décor” of your room? That can cost you also. You might need a stainless steel cage or a wood display type cage.

So shop around. Consider it no different then looking for new room furniture.

RIGHT SIZE CAGE FOR THE SIZE OF BIRD

In general, you want a cage that will allow the bird to completely stretch their wings. If it’s a long tailed bird like a Macaw, they must have room to turn around. We have seen many Macaw’s who were in too narrow a cage with their beautiful tail feathers trashed!

Small birds will do fine in small cages as long as they are wide. This will allow them to fly around a little. Larger birds can not fly in their cage, so adding height will do. They can climb up the bars and ropes to their heart’s content.

Make sure there is room for their toys! You are buying them a home, not an obstacle course.

PLASTIC OR METAL, DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF BIRD

One word of warning about plastic cages: They are designed to be cheap. The plastic is very easy to crack. I recommend them only for small birds. Also note that there are a couple manufacturers that make a smoky colored opaque plastic material. While these cages are very unique in design and attractive, the plastic is extremely brittle. Choose this only with a specific need in mind.

Metal cages take some degree of care to maintain them. They must be cleaned and disinfected frequently, and it’s important to dry them completely. Poor cleaning will result in very rusty cages. Note that larger birds can easily bend and destroy the bars, so be sure you have the proper gauge material. If you put an Amazon into a cage designed for a Cockatiel, the bars will quickly be bent, welds broken, and exposed ends to show. This can easily impale your bird.

Many poorly manufactured metal cages are not properly treated prior to paint being applied. This results in paint chipping prematurely. Do some research before you choose a metal cage. This reason alone may prompt you to pay more money for your cage.

HOW EASY TO CLEAN?

Pay attention to how easy the cage will be to clean. Ornate cages with very detailed bars are hard to clean. One company has designed a series of cages that simply slide together (no screws at all). When it’s time to clean, you can disassemble the cage quickly and take each panel to a convenient place to clean.

What about the accessories like food water cups? Those fancy “crock” bowls are nice, but what if you break one? Can you find a replacement? Are replacement parts readily available? Having an extra set available makes it much easier to clean, as you can have one set soaking while the other is in use.